🧀 Provolone

Provolone is an Italian ripened, firm to semi-hard pasta filata cheese. Codex standard CXS 272 describes its body as near white or ivory to yellow, with a fibrous texture of long parallel protein strands. It can be mild or sharp, and two of its names are protected in the EU. ¹⁵

According to Codex, provolone is made from cows' or buffaloes' milk (or a mixture), coagulated with rennet or other safe coagulating enzymes, with starter cultures. In pasta filata processing the curd of suitable pH is heated, kneaded and stretched until smooth; still warm, it is cut and moulded, then firmed in chilled water or brine. The shape is mainly cylindrical or pear-shaped, and the cheese is sold with or without a rind, which may be coated. Ripening is normally at least 1 month at 10–20 °C. The minimum is 45% fat in dry matter, with a dry matter of at least 51% (fat in dry matter 45–50%), 53% (50–60%) or 60% (60% and above). The name provolone may be used under this standard only if the cheese complies with it. ¹

Two names are protected in the EU as PDO. Provolone Valpadana comes from the provinces of Cremona, Brescia, Verona, Vicenza, Rovigo, Padua and Piacenza, adjoining municipalities of Bergamo, Mantua and Lodi, and the province of Trento. It comes in two varieties: mild, with a delicate taste, and tangy, which grows sharper with ageing or with kid or lamb rennet. Minimum maturation is 10 days up to 6 kg, 30 days above that and 90 days for tangy cheeses above 15 kg; tangy cheeses over 30 kg matured for more than 8 months may carry the mark P.V.S. ⁵

After stretching, the consortium explains, the cheese is shaped by hand or in moulds, firmed in chilled running water and salted in brine for anything from a few hours to thirty days, depending on size. It is then tied with cords and may be smoked. ² The consortium recommends it on its own and with starters, first and main courses. ⁶

Provolone del Monaco is made from raw milk in 13 municipalities of the province of Naples, at least 20% of it from the local Agerolese cattle. It ripens for at least 180 days and weighs 2.5 to 8 kg. The specification explains the name: farmers carried the cheeses by sea to Naples at night, wearing a heavy cloak like a monk's habit against the damp, and people at the port began calling the carrier “the Monk”. ⁴

Provolone or mozzarella? Both are pasta filata cheeses, but provolone is ripened, normally at least 1 month, and firm to semi-hard, so its taste runs from mild to sharp. Dolce or piccante? Dolce is delicate; piccante is tangy and grows sharper with ageing or with kid or lamb rennet. Provolone Valpadana or Provolone del Monaco? Valpadana comes from northern Italian provinces; del Monaco is made from raw milk in the province of Naples, at least 20% of it from Agerolese cattle, ripens at least 180 days and weighs 2.5 to 8 kg.

Look for the full name Provolone Valpadana or Provolone del Monaco with the EU PDO mark (protected designation of origin); the bare word provolone can mean any cheese made to the Codex standard. The words dolce (mild) or piccante (tangy) and the age tell you the taste. Tangy cheeses over 30 kg ripened for more than 8 months may carry the mark P.V.S. The shape is cylindrical or pear-shaped, often tied with cords. You will find it at a supermarket cheese counter, a delicatessen or a cheesemonger.

Why it matters to you. “Provolone” alone covers mild cheese and sharp aged cheese alike. To judge the taste, look for “dolce” or “piccante” and the age. The PDO mark ties the cheese to a place and a specification, while under Codex the milk may also be buffalo's. Check the label if you need to know whether the milk is raw. ¹⁴⁵