🧀 Bra (cheese)

Bra is an Italian cheese with a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), a pressed cheese made from cow's milk, to which up to 20% sheep's or goat's milk may be added. According to the specification, the milk is produced, and the cheese made and ripened, in the province of Cuneo and in the municipality of Villafranca Piemonte (province of Turin). ³

How it is made. The town of Bra, the main historical market for the product, gave the cheese its name. Bra Tenero is made from whole milk; semi-skimmed milk may be used for Bra Duro and for the d'Alpeggio cheeses. Curdling takes place at 27–38 °C. Animal rennet must contain at least 80% chymosin; a non-animal coagulant may also be used. The curd is cut twice, moulded and pressed. The cows' basic diet is green or preserved fodder, and more than half of it by weight must come from the production area. ³

Two types. Bra Tenero ripens for at least 45 days. Its rind is inedible, light grey, elastic and smooth; the paste is white or ivory, moderately firm and elastic with a few small eyes; the taste is pleasantly aromatic and moderately full-flavoured. Bra Duro ripens for at least 6 months. Its rind is firm, hard and dark beige, possibly treated with edible oils; the paste is light straw to ochre; the taste is full. Duro ripened for more than a year may be labelled Stravecchio. The wheels are cylindrical with flat sides, 30–40 cm across and 6–9 kg, with at least 32% fat in the dry matter. ³

Bra d'Alpeggio. Tenero d'Alpeggio and Duro d'Alpeggio are made from the milk of cows grazing mountain pasture from 1 June to 15 October; stable mountain farms use milk from animals grazing above 900 metres. ³

Labelling. Bands stamped at moulding carry a stylised letter B, the type and the producer's code. A round paper label shows a little man with a moustache and hat carrying a cheese: red for Bra and Tenero, brown for Duro, on a green background for d'Alpeggio. Bra may be sold whole or in portions, and Duro also pre-packed grated; cutting, packing and grating may take place outside the production area. ³

Where it began. The specification credits herders who moved from high pastures to the foothills and plains each winter. Traders in the town of Bra collected this cheese from the valleys, aged it in their cellars and sold it widely, which is how the town gave it the name. ⁵⁶

How to use each type. Tenero is sweet and suits salads and baking, with young white or red wines. Duro was once only for grating and still works that way, and its stronger taste suits aged, full-bodied reds. The large area, with its different soils and plants, makes the taste vary. ⁵⁶

Bra or another Italian hard cheese? Bra is a pressed cheese whose name is protected on its own: it must be made in the province of Cuneo and in Villafranca Piemonte, from cow’s milk with at most 20% sheep’s or goat’s milk. What sets it apart is that one name covers two cheeses: Tenero, soft and sweet from 45 days, and Duro, hard and full-flavoured from 6 months, once used only for grating. Both come from a curd that is cut twice, moulded and pressed, but the rind, paste colour and taste differ.

Look for the name Bra with the EU PDO symbol (protected designation of origin) and the word Tenero or Duro. The bands stamped at moulding carry a stylised letter B, the type and the producer’s code. A round paper label shows a little man with a moustache carrying a cheese: red for Bra and Tenero, brown for Duro, on green for d’Alpeggio. Pieces and pre-packed grated Duro are normal, so a pack may be cut. Look for it at a supermarket cheese counter or a delicatessen.

Why it matters to you. The name Bra has been protected in the EU since 1996. Check for Tenero or Duro on the label: the specification gives the two a different rind, paste colour and taste. ³