🫒 Galega

Galega (Galega Vulgar) is Portugal's main traditional olive cultivar, whose fruit gives both oil and table olives. It is associated with five of the country's six designations of origin for olive oil. In the IOC World Catalogue of Olive Varieties, Galega has many local names: Galega Miúda, Molarinha, Negroa, Negrucha and others.

According to 2007–2008 data, Galega accounted for 80% of the country's olives; more recent figures put it at about 60%. Five of Portugal's six designations of origin for olive oil are linked to this cultivar. Researchers consider Ribatejo, centred on Santarém, to be the region from which it spread. In recent years, new orchards have been replacing Galega with more productive foreign cultivars suited to intensive growing.

The tree is vigorous and upright, with a dense crown. Galega starts bearing early and is self-pollinating; yields are high but alternate from year to year. It ripens early. The fruit holds tightly to the branches, which hampers mechanical harvesting. The cultivar tolerates drought but copes poorly with cold and with saline and chalky soils; it resists verticillium wilt but is susceptible to the olive fruit fly, olive knot and anthracnose.

The fruit is medium-sized, moderately elongated and black when fully ripe. Most of it goes for oil, even though its oil content is modest; researchers note the oil's excellent quality. And because the stone separates easily from the flesh, Galega is also highly valued for table olives.

On the label. Galega shows how olive groves are changing: an old local cultivar behind most of Portugal's designations of origin for oil is giving way to newer ones. To taste it, read the cultivar list on the label of a Portuguese olive oil that carries a protected designation.