🍇 Assyrtiko

Assyrtiko is a white wine grape from Greece and the main variety of the island of Santorini. A dry white wine labelled Santorini has to contain at least 85 % Assyrtiko, with Athiri and Aidani making up the rest. In 2015 the variety covered about 2,000 ha in Greece, or 1.9 % of the vineyards (OIV).

Santorini's vineyards are unusual. The soils are volcanic: basalt, ash, pumice and sand. Phylloxera never took hold in the sandy, low-clay soil, so the vines still grow on their own roots, ungrafted. They are trained as a low basket (kouloura): the bunches ripen inside it, sheltered from the strong winds.

The Santorini zone covers the islands of Santorini and Thirasia and has existed since 1971. Sweet Vinsanto is also made here from sun-dried grapes: it contains at least 370 g/l of sugar, and its oxidative ageing lasts at least 24 months.

Among Greek grapes Assyrtiko is a notable exception: according to the OIV, the area of most local varieties shrank in 2011–2015, while its area grew slightly. VIVC lists only 6 synonyms, among them Asyrtiko and Atzala; the parents of Assyrtiko are unknown.

Why it matters to you. The word Santorini on the label of a dry white wine means it contains at least 85 % Assyrtiko. If only the grape is named on a bottle from the EU, it makes up at least 85 % of it. White wines are served chilled, at 4–10 °C, and stored lying down, in the dark, at 10–16 °C.