📜 Mukuzani

Mukuzani is a Georgian protected appellation of origin for dry red wine made only from Saperavi in the Mukuzani micro-zone of Inner Kakheti, on the right bank of the Alazani. It was registered as Georgia's appellation No. 2 on 30 August 2005. ¹ The EU–Georgia Association Agreement protects the name in the European Union as well. ²

Where it comes from. The micro-zone runs from the slopes of the Tsiv-Gombori range down to the Alazani, between the Akura gorge in the north-west and the Tanana gorge in the south-east. It takes in ten villages: Chumlaki, Akhasheni, Zegaani, Mukuzani, Velistsikhe, Vazisubani, Shashiani, Kalaura, Vachnadziani and Kakhipari. The grapes must come only from vineyards there, at 350–700 m, but they may be pressed and made into wine anywhere in Kakheti. ¹

Climate. The climate is moderately humid, with hot summers and mild winters, and the slopes face north-east. The sun shines 2,150–2,200 hours a year, the mean temperature is 12.5 °C, with 23.6 °C in July and August and 1.1 °C in January. Of about 870 mm of rain a year, little falls in June to August, so vineyards may need watering while the berries form. Frost-free days exceed 230, cold air flowing down from the Caucasus glaciers sharpens winter and spring frosts, and hail falls on about two days a year. ¹

Soils. Most of the zone has deep dark-brown and rendzina-brown soils, with lime-rich deluvial and alluvial soils in between. They are 60–130 cm deep, very poor in humus and mildly alkaline, and their lime content rises with depth to about 24% in the lower layers. The specification links these lime-rich slopes, their exposure and the climate to the quality of the wine. ¹

Grape and vineyards. Only Saperavi is allowed, the most widespread variety in Kakheti, which is used there for both qvevri and European-style wine. ³ Rows are 1–3 m apart, vines 0.8–1.5 m apart and trunks 60–90 cm high. The grapes must reach at least 19% sugar, the yield is capped at 10 t/ha and a tonne may give no more than 650 litres of wine. Grapes may travel only in wooden or plastic crates, never in plastic bags. ¹

How it is made. The grapes are crushed and destemmed, fermented completely at no more than 30 °C, then go through malolactic fermentation before sulphiting. Mukuzani may be bottled young or aged in wooden barrels for at least six months, and it may be sold only in bottles. ¹ Georgian law forbids adding water, sugar, colouring or aromas to wine, and every appellation wine is certified and tasted by a state commission before sale. ⁴

In the glass. The specification asks for a dark garnet colour and a full, extracted, velvety taste, with a fruity bouquet that grows with age. The wine needs at least 11% actual alcohol and no more than 15% total, at most 4 g/l sugar and at least 5 g/l acidity. Volatile acidity is capped at 1.2 g/l and sulphur dioxide at 150 mg/l, and the sugar-free extract must reach 22 g/l. ¹

History. In the early 19th century the estate of Aleksandre Chavchavadze stood out here for its investment and new techniques. After serfdom was abolished hired labour replaced unpaid work, and from the 1880s a state estates department bought noble estates in Mukuzani and Zegaani and modernised vineyards and cellars. From the 1920s research centres in Tbilisi and Telavi brought grafted vines and new wineries. Mukuzani has been made since 1888, and by 1990 it had won 13 medals: 8 gold, 4 silver and 1 bronze. ¹

Why it matters to you. Mukuzani tells you three things at once: a single grape, Saperavi, a single place and a dry style, so do not expect sweetness. ¹ Thanks to the agreement with the EU, wine sold there under this name must come from Georgia. ² WHO stresses that there is no safe level of alcohol consumption. ⁵