🍇 Viognier

Viognier is an aromatic white wine grape variety from the northern Rhône in France. It has been mentioned since 1781 and is the only white-wine variety of Condrieu, recognised in 1940. Viognier wines smell of peach, pear and violet, with low acidity and a soft, full taste.

The variety almost disappeared: according to the Condrieu specification, in 1965 only about 8 hectares were left in the region and in the world. Vineyards began to be restored from these, and in 2010 Condrieu had over 140 hectares. It ripens late, and its yields are irregular.

The Condrieu rules are strict: wine only from Viognier, grapes harvested by hand, a minimum planting density of 6500 vines per hectare, a base yield of 41 hectolitres per hectare. In 2009 the area reached about 150 hectares, and production about 5000 hectolitres a year at roughly 80 estates.

Viognier also grows outside Condrieu: in Château-Grillet it is the only permitted variety, and up to 20% Viognier may be added to the red wine of Côte-Rôtie, although most producers add no more than 5% (Wikipedia). It is also planted in Languedoc, the Côtes du Rhône, California and Australia.

Why it matters to you. If the label says Condrieu, the bottle contains only Viognier: the name allows no other varieties. Other Viognier wines, according to Wikipedia, are best drunk young: they peak in the first or second year, although some keep their quality for up to ten years, and after three years many floral aromas fade.