🌵 Tequila

For anyone used to reading whisky, bourbon or gin labels, tequila works on the same logic: a legal definition decides what may carry the name. It is made by distilling must from Agave tequilana Weber, blue variety (azul), under the Mexican standard NOM-006-SCFI-2012: 35–55% ABV at 20 °C, with at least 51% of the sugars in the must coming from agave grown in the area of origin. In the US, where strength is also quoted as proof, tequila is bottled at 40% ABV (80 proof) or more.

The standard sets two categories. “100% de agave” is never topped up with other sugars and has to be matured and bottled at the plant of an authorised producer inside the area of origin. Plain “Tequila” may contain up to 49% reducing sugars from other sources and, under certain conditions, may be bottled outside the area. The raw material is the heart of the plant, the piña.

By ageing, tequila is sold as blanco or plata (unaged, or less than two months in oak); joven or oro (a blend of blanco with aged tequila or with permitted additives); reposado (at least two months in oak barrels); añejo (at least a year in barrels of up to 600 litres); and extra añejo (at least three years in the same barrels).

The name was declared protected on 9 December 1974, making it Mexico's first appellation of origin. According to the Tequila Regulatory Council (CRT), the area covers 181 municipalities in five states: Jalisco, Michoacán, Guanajuato, Nayarit and Tamaulipas. In the EU, “Tequila” is protected under a 1997 agreement with Mexico and registered as a geographical indication; in the US it is recognised as a distinctive product of Mexico.

Tequila or vodka? Vodka is made from other raw materials and usually has no ageing classes, while tequila is distilled from blue Weber agave must and sold as blanco, reposado, añejo or extra añejo. Tequila or mezcal? Both are Mexican agave spirits, but mezcal can use any agave species and tequila only blue Weber. Whisky and bourbon drinkers can compare it by process: tequila's ageing classes are set by months or years in oak, and “gold” (oro) does not guarantee ageing.

Under NOM-006-SCFI-2012 the label must show the word “Tequila”, the category and class, the strength as “% Alc. Vol.”, the producer's name and address, and a legend such as “Hecho en México”, with an official seal carrying the authorised producer's registration number. In the EU the name is registered as a geographical indication (GI). Look in the spirits aisle of a supermarket, a specialist spirits shop, or a duty-free shop.

Why it matters to you. The line that counts on the label is the category: “100% de agave” means blue agave sugars only, while without it part of the sugars may come from other sources. “Joven” and “oro” do not mean longer ageing; they mean a blend or additives. And remember: according to the WHO, there is no safe amount of alcohol.