Rigatoni

Rigatoni (singular rigatone) are wide tubes of durum wheat pasta with ridges along the outside. De Cecco calls them a typical shape of the Roman tradition, with a large diameter and thick walls, and Garofalo also says they come from Rome. Most brands cook them in 9 to 14 minutes. ¹³⁵

A name from the ridges. Barilla says the name comes from «riga», the Italian for a line or ridge, and places the shape's birth in Rome. ² De Cecco and Garofalo agree on Rome, and De Cecco also sells a separate Rigatoni Napoletani n° 124, which it says come from Campania. ¹³⁴

Built to hold sauce. Divella describes its rigatoni as ridged on the outside with deep grooves, made for rich, flavourful recipes. ⁵ De Cecco recommends any sauce liquid enough to get inside the tube and be caught in its ridges, and Divella's bronze-drawn version, it says, traps the sauce inside. ¹⁶

Cooking times. De Cecco n° 24 needs 14 minutes, or 12 al dente, and Garofalo's bronze-drawn n° 35, a Pasta di Gragnano IGP, 13. ¹³ Barilla gives 12–13 minutes, Divella 9 for its standard n. 17 and 10–12 for the bronze-drawn one. ²⁵⁶ The gap comes from wall thickness and the die, so follow your own pack. ¹⁶

Meat sauces first. De Cecco says rigatoni suit tomato and vegetable sauces, but meat sauces suit them best: slow-braised stracotto, meat and mushrooms, beef and pork, sausage or a giblet ragù. ¹ Garofalo pairs them with meat ragù and baked dishes, and Barilla with chunky meat or vegetable sauces, mushroom cream and spicy tomato sauces. ³²

Rome's classics. The Accademia Italiana della Cucina's rigatoni con la pajata «all'uso di Roma» use 400 g of rigatoni and 1 kg of pajata, the intestine of a milk-fed calf, simmered for two hours in 800 g of tomato passata and finished with 40 g of pecorino. ¹⁰ Turismo Roma names rigatoni, with spaghetti and mezze maniche, among the most popular pastas for gricia with guanciale and Pecorino Romano. ¹¹

Nutrition and allergens. Divella's rigatoni give 355 kcal per 100 g, with 73 g of carbohydrate and 13 g of protein. ⁵ Rigatoni contain wheat, a gluten cereal that EU labels must highlight; De Cecco warns of possible traces of soy, Garofalo and Divella of soy and mustard. ¹²¹³⁵

Rigatoni vs penne. Penne are cut diagonally at both ends like a quill, and De Cecco's ridged penne n° 41 cook in 12 minutes. ¹³ Its rigatoni n° 24 are wider and thicker, with the cut straight across, and need 14 minutes. ¹ Divella's mezzi rigatoni n. 18, a shorter version, cook in 9. ⁷

Why it matters to you. Pick rigatoni for meat ragù, gricia or a baked dish, and keep the sauce loose enough to fill the tubes. ¹¹¹ Cook by your pack, from 9 to 14 minutes, and a little less if the pasta will bake afterwards. ⁵¹⁸ Check the label for wheat and for may-contain warnings such as soy or mustard. ¹²³